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What Do Enzymes Do for Your Skin?

WHY YOU SHOULD BE USING ENZYMES IN YOUR SKIN CARE ROUTINE

Enzymes are protein machines that, when in contact with the right substrate, perform a chemical reaction that modifies or breaks down that substrate [1]. They are often naturally derived from plant or yeast extracts and add a significant boost to any skin care regimen [2]. From papain extracted from papaya to bromelain found in pineapple, enzymes offer a gentle yet effective approach to rejuvenating and revitalizing the skin. Let's delve deeper into how these enzymes work and their impact on the skin.

THE POWER OF PAPAIN AND BROMELAIN

Papain and bromelain are two powerhouse enzymes commonly found in skincare products, cherished for their exfoliating prowess [3,4]. Papain, extracted from papaya fruit, and bromelain, derived from pineapple, work by breaking down the bonds of proteins that link skin cells, facilitating their removal from the skin's surface. This process promotes cellular turnover, revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath.

Unlike harsh physical exfoliants that can cause irritation and micro-tears, enzymes offer a gentler alternative. They effectively dissolve dead skin cells without disrupting the skin's delicate balance, making them suitable for even the most sensitive skin types. They can also either replace or boost the effectiveness of acid-based exfoliation. 

THE EXFOLIATION PROCESS

Exfoliation is a vital step in any skincare routine, as it helps to slough off dead skin cells that can clog pores and contribute to a dull complexion. Enzymes, such as papain and bromelain, target the proteins that bind dead skin cells together, effectively dissolving them and revealing the vibrant skin beneath. Regular exfoliation with enzyme-based products can help improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more youthful complexion. Additionally, by removing the outer layer of dead skin cells, enzyme exfoliation enhances the penetration of skincare products, allowing active ingredients to better absorb into the skin.

BEYOND EXFOLIATION: BREAKING DOWN OIL

Enzymes in skincare offer benefits beyond exfoliation. For example, lipase enzymes help to break down excess oil and cell membrane lipids on the skin's surface, making them particularly beneficial for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin [5,6]. By targeting lipids, lipase enzymes help to mattify the skin and minimize the appearance of shine.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT ENZYME FOR YOUR SKIN

When incorporating enzyme-based products into your skincare routine, it's essential to consider your skin type and concerns. While papain and bromelain are generally well-tolerated by most skin types, individuals with sensitive skin may prefer gentler enzymes, such asamylase or keratinase. Amylase breaks down starches while keratinase is a protease specific for keratin, all of which make up the complex extracellular matrix that links cells together [7,8]. It's important to follow product instructions carefully and avoid over-exfoliation, which can lead to irritation and sensitivity. Start by using enzyme-based products without the use of other chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs and gradually increase frequency based on your skin's response.

CONCLUSION

Enzymes have emerged as powerful allies in the quest for healthy, radiant skin. From papain and bromelain to lipase, amylase, and keratinase, these natural catalysts offer gentle yet effective exfoliation and rejuvenation. By incorporating enzyme-based products into your skincare routine, you can unlock the transformative power of nature.

Sources:

[1] Trevisol TC, Henriques RO, Souza AJA, Furigo A (2022) An overview of the use of proteolytic enzymes as exfoliating agents.J Cosmet Dermatol 21, 3300–3307.

[2] Kanlayavattanakul M, Khongkow M, Lourith N (2024) Wound healing and photoprotection properties of Acanthus ebracteatus Vahl. extracts standardized in verbascoside.Sci Rep 14, 1904.

[3] Palmieri B, Vadalà M, Laurino C (2019) Nutrition in wound healing: investigation of the molecular mechanisms, a narrative review.J Wound Care 28, 683–693.

[4] Ramundo J, Gray M (2008) Enzymatic wound debridement.J Wound Ostomy Continence Nurs 35, 273–280.

[5] Balogh-Weiser D, Molnár A, Tóth GD, Koplányi G, Szemes J, Decsi B, Katona G, Salamah M, Ender F, Kovács A, Berkó S, Budai-Szűcs M, Balogh GT (2023) Combined Nanofibrous Face Mask: Co-Formulation of Lipases and Antibiotic Agent by Electrospinning Technique.Pharmaceutics 15, 1174.

[6] Ansorge-Schumacher MB, Thum O (2013) Immobilised lipases in the cosmetics industry.Chem Soc Rev 42, 6475–6490.

[7] Gupta R, Ramnani P (2006) Microbial keratinases and their prospective applications: an overview.Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 70, 21–33.

[8] Tallapragada P, Dikshit R, Jadhav A, Sarah U (2017) Partial purification and characterization of amylase enzyme under solid state fermentation from Monascus sanguineus.J Genet Eng Biotechnol 15, 95–101.

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