SUNSCREEN FOR MELANIN-RICH SKIN

The beautiful range of deep skin with browns and rich undertones, is enriched in the pigment melanin. Melanin offers some natural protection against UV radiation and influences how the skin responds to sun exposure. While melanin is partially protective, it does not make sunscreen unnecessary. Proper sun protection is essential to prevent hyperpigmentation, premature aging, and skin cancer. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of sunscreen for melanin-rich skin, including types of sunscreen, pre- and post-sun care, and other essential tips.

UNDERSTANDING MELANIN-RICH SKIN

While melanin-rich skin is naturally more resistant to photodamage, it can delay the detection of melanoma, a form of skin cancer that appears as hyperpigmentation [1]. African Americans have the lowest incidence rates of melanoma in the U.S. but when it is detected, it has a much worse prognosis. Darker skin makes it hard for physicians and testing equipment to detect the hyperpigmented abnormalities [2]. Here are three things to know about melanin-rich skin:

1. Natural sun protection: melanin provides some degree of natural sun protection by absorbing UV radiation. However, this protection is not sufficient to prevent all sun damage [3].
2. Hyperpigmentation: melanin-rich skin is prone to hyperpigmentation, where dark spots or patches appear due to excess melanin production triggered by sun exposure and wounds [4].
3. Keloids and scarring: people with melanin-rich skin are more susceptible to developing keloids and prominent scars from sunburns or skin injuries [5].

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SUNSCREEN 

People with melanin-rich skin may often have a hard time finding a sunscreen that doesn’t leave a white cast, especially mineral sunscreens. For mineral sunscreens that don’t leave a white caste, tinted sunscreens or sunscreens with more advanced formulations may be helpful [6]. When it comes to choosing a sunscreen, there are a few main points to keep in mind: 

1. Broad-spectrum protection: select a sunscreen that offers broad-spectrum protection, which shields against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays penetrate deeply and cause aging, while UVB rays cause burns.
2. SPF rating: an SPF of 30 or higher is recommended for daily use. This level of protection helps prevent both immediate sunburn and long-term damage.
3. Mineral vs. Chemical sunscreen:

   - Mineral sunscreens: contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which sit on the skin's surface and reflect UV rays. They are cleaner, less likely to cause irritation, and are suitable for sensitive skin.   

- Chemical sunscreens: contain ingredients like Avobenzone and Octocrylene, which absorb UV radiation. These are often easier to apply on melanin-rich skin without leaving a white cast, but are more harmful to our body and the environment.

PRE-SUN SKIN CARE

There are also ways to prevent and recover from sun damage as listed below:

1. Hydration: keep the skin well-moisturized. Hydrated skin is better protected and less likely to develop dry patches or irritation from sun exposure.
2. Antioxidants: incorporate antioxidant serums, such as Vitamin C, into your morning routine. Antioxidants help neutralize free radicals generated by UV exposure.
3. Layering: apply sunscreen as the last step in your morning skincare routine, after serums and moisturizers.

POST-SUN SKIN CARE

1. Cleansing: gently cleanse the skin to remove sunscreen, sweat, and impurities accumulated throughout the day.
2. Soothing ingredients: use products with soothing ingredients like Aloe Vera, Chamomile, and Niacinamide to calm any inflammation or redness.
3. Hydration and repair: apply a rich moisturizer to replenish hydration and support skin repair. Ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides are beneficial.
4. Nighttime treatments: consider using products with retinol or peptides at night to promote skin renewal and address any sun-induced damage. 

CONCLUSION 

Proper sun protection is crucial for maintaining the health and beauty of melanin-rich skin. By choosing the right sunscreen and following a pre- and post-sun care routine, individuals with melanin-rich skin can enjoy the sun safely while preserving their skin's radiance and vitality. 

Sources:

[1] Kushimo OO, Salau AO, Adeleke OJ, Olaoye DS (2023) Deep learning model to improve melanoma detection in people of color. Arab journal of basic and applied sciences 30, 92–102.

[2] Culp MB (2019) Melanoma among non-Hispanic black Americans. Prev chronic dis16,.

[3] Brenner M, Hearing VJ (2008) The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin. Photochem photobiol 84, 539–549.

[4] Moolla S, Miller-Monthrope Y (2022) Dermatology: How to manage facial hyperpigmentation in skin of colour. Drugs context 11, 2021-11–2.

[5] Ogawa R (2022) The most current algorithms for the treatment and prevention of hypertrophic scars and keloids: A 2020 update of the algorithms published 10 years ago. Plast reconstr surg 149, 79–94.

[6] Addae AJ, Weiss PS (2024) Standardizing the white cast potential of sunscreens with metal oxide ultraviolet filters. Acc mater res 5, 392–399.